Bili smo na Koroškem. Povabljeni smo bili na piknik. Čeprav ne maram kaj preveč takih srečanj, sem vseeno moral it. Zopet se bo cel dan jedlo in pilo. Jaz pa tega ne prenesem. Kot tudi 1. maj ne. O kresovanju pa bolje, da ne govorim.
Odpravili smo se že zjutraj. Vožnja, ki traja 2h, se je vlekla kot kurja čreva. Do Velenja smo prišli kar hitro. Naprej se ti pa vleče… Pri nas je bilo že sončno jutro, v Ljubljani je bila megla, da bi jo lahko kar rezal, na drugi strani Trojan pa spet sonce. Prometa niti ni bilo tako veliko. Očitno so še vsi bolj ali manj spali po prekrokanem kresovanju.
In smo prispeli na cilj. Na mizi so bile že pripravljene dobrote, iz kuhinje se je že širil vonj po juhi, ki se je kuhala. No, jaz jo vseeno nisem jedel, ker jo ne maram. Aperitiv, vino, sok, whisky,… Pil sem najprej Amaretto, potem pa vino Refošk… Ob takih priložnosti lahko vsaj malo več popijem alkoholnih pijač, ker nisem vozil jaz, ampak ati.
Kosilo. Spet pretiravanje z vso hrano. Jedel sem bolj malo, kot vedno. Juhe nisem jedel, krompir in pečenka sta bila v redu, solata in na koncu še sladica. Puding. Spodaj vanilijev, zgoraj pa čokoladni. Mislil sem, da je cel čokoladen, ker vanilijevega ne jem. Zelo lepo so ga dekorirali, začel sem ga jest, na kar sem ugotovil, da je spodaj vanilija. Zato sem samo pojedel zgornjo plast čokoladnega pudinga. Brat mi je začel sikat, češ da se preveč afnam, a sem ga zabil nazaj, da ve, da ne jem vanilijevega. Mene ne bo nihče silil, da naj jem tisto, kar ne maram. No, če pogledam brata, ki požre vse, bi bil tudi jaz tak kot on. Se ne preneseva kaj preveč; sva kot pes in mačka.
Po kosilu pa smo se odpravili na izlet v Avstrijo. Slab km nas loči do tja. Je čisto blizu. Vožnja po Kärnten; skozi Bach, Lavamünd, Pfarrdorf do Stausee Soboth-a. To jezero leži na meji med Kärnten in Steiermark. Prvič sem bil na Avstrijskem Štajerskem. Stausee Soboth je zajezitveno jezero. Če bi zminiral nasip oziroma jez, bi poplavilo kar precejšen del Dravske doline; predvsem Muto in okoliške kraje. Vreme je bilo čudovito. Sonce, sem ter tja so ga zakrili oblaki, rahlo je pihalo, ljudi pa je bilo tudi kar dosti ob tem jezru; nekateri so piknikovali, drugi so pa uživali v relaksaciji.
Monday, January 27, 2014
Sunday, January 5, 2014
Simptomi vnetja mehurja
Simptomi vnetja mehurja
Najpogostejši simptom vnetja mehurja je boleč in pekoč občutek pri uriniranju. Drugi simptomi vnetja mehurja so:
- Bolečine v trebuhu
- Pogosta ali konstantna potreba po uriniranju
- Moten ali smrdeč urin
Sunday, January 22, 2012
The Ten Worst Things to Hear in a Tattoo Shop
10. Do you mind paying me up front? For some reason, most folks stiff me if I don’t get the money before I do the work.
9. I haven’t learned how to draw a Grim Reaper yet, so I did a naked chick hugging Mickey Mouse instead.
8. Don’t worry, this is a one of a kind tattoo. Your clover has five leaves, not four.
7. I’d like you to meet my father-in-law, he’s a laser removal specialist.
6. Just let me toss back another shot and we’ll get started.
5. You mean B-O-O-B doesn't?t spell ?Bob??
4. If you don’t like it, don’t panic. I do bitchin’ cover-ups.
3. Latex gloves are for sissies.
2. A Screaming Eagle?! I thought you said “A Preening Beagle”.
1. OOPS!
9. I haven’t learned how to draw a Grim Reaper yet, so I did a naked chick hugging Mickey Mouse instead.
8. Don’t worry, this is a one of a kind tattoo. Your clover has five leaves, not four.
7. I’d like you to meet my father-in-law, he’s a laser removal specialist.
6. Just let me toss back another shot and we’ll get started.
5. You mean B-O-O-B doesn't?t spell ?Bob??
4. If you don’t like it, don’t panic. I do bitchin’ cover-ups.
3. Latex gloves are for sissies.
2. A Screaming Eagle?! I thought you said “A Preening Beagle”.
1. OOPS!
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Tattoo cover up and removal
Because of the increasing number of scratchers and wannabes popping up all over the place, tattoo coverups and removals are becoming very common place.This is why it is so important to research a tattoo studio, and make certain you are comfortable and confident with your artist of choice. Quality is usually not cheap, and a poor tattoo will cost you more money and grief in the long run because you are busy hiding it from people and forking out more money for a cover-up, or removal.
First off, and very briefly, is tattoo removal. Don’t do it yourself, for obvious reasons such as scarring, go to your doctor and consult the problem with him or her. They will point you in the direction of a laser specialist. Wow, lasers, sounds expensive, yeah, expect to be paying a few thousand dollars and repeated visits. Keep in mind not all pigments can be totally removed either, no matter what anybody tells you. The only other option, is a tattoo cover-up. If someone tells you your work can only be covered with something big and dark, or can not be covered at all, go somewhere else, obviously that particular tattooist has no idea on how to use light and shade and is probably just as skilled as the guy or gal who gave you the first tattoo! When you do find a professional, competent artist to perform your cover-up, please listen to them with an open mind. The advice given on a specific design will most likely be valid (a black and white portrait of your grandmother’s head would more than likely not be a very good cover-up design for that colorfully hacked on design of a black panther fighting a green dragon which is ripping through your chest!... you get the idea).
I should also point out to you that it will take a very long time for skin to totally recuperate from a tattoo, so going over it will obviously be more tender than the first time around (which probably hurt anyway, if it was done by a wannabe).
First off, and very briefly, is tattoo removal. Don’t do it yourself, for obvious reasons such as scarring, go to your doctor and consult the problem with him or her. They will point you in the direction of a laser specialist. Wow, lasers, sounds expensive, yeah, expect to be paying a few thousand dollars and repeated visits. Keep in mind not all pigments can be totally removed either, no matter what anybody tells you. The only other option, is a tattoo cover-up. If someone tells you your work can only be covered with something big and dark, or can not be covered at all, go somewhere else, obviously that particular tattooist has no idea on how to use light and shade and is probably just as skilled as the guy or gal who gave you the first tattoo! When you do find a professional, competent artist to perform your cover-up, please listen to them with an open mind. The advice given on a specific design will most likely be valid (a black and white portrait of your grandmother’s head would more than likely not be a very good cover-up design for that colorfully hacked on design of a black panther fighting a green dragon which is ripping through your chest!... you get the idea).
I should also point out to you that it will take a very long time for skin to totally recuperate from a tattoo, so going over it will obviously be more tender than the first time around (which probably hurt anyway, if it was done by a wannabe).
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
Cheapest tattoo prices
Cheapest tattoo is prison tattoo. And you don't even have to worry about the design, because it's going to say Owned by Bubba. Kids, you get what you pay for.
Saturday, January 7, 2012
Applying the Tattoo
It is surprising to me, the number of people that get tattooed, that still don?t understand all the steps taken in applying ink to skin. I suppose if one doesn't ask why the artist is doing what he/she is doing, when they're doing it, they won't know the procedure and steps taken in achieving the finished product. Bare in mind that this file is about only one style of application, artists may be taught differently, but the end results are still the same.
At this point, the needles have been soldered to the needle bars and all the necessary steps have been taken for sterilization. The first step is to prepare the area of skin where the tattoo is going. The artist sprays the area with a mixture of water and antiseptic green soap, then removes hair using a disposable razor (hair clogs up tubes and hinders application of stencil and the actual tattoo).
Once all hair is removed, a light coat of speed stick is applied. The only purpose for the speed stick is to enable the stencil to stick to the skin. The stencil is usually onion skin paper with an outline made by a hectograph pencil, or hectograph carbon paper. This method produces a nice, clean, sharp image of the outline and is less prone to be accidentally wiped off like the charcoal stencils of days gone by.
Now that there is a temporary outline of the tattoo in place, it is time begin. Using a single needle, the artist will start at the bottom right hand side and work up (south paw artists would start at the bottom left hand side), so the stencil won't be lost when the artist cleans a permanent line. With single needle work, a thinner black ink than what is used with shading is used, because the thinner ink can be easily wiped away from the skin without smearing (as well, thinner ink is less prone to 'bleed' under the skin as compared to a thicker ink). The tattoo machine should be making a nice, clear, 'buzzing' sound and lines are placed smooth and evenly by landing the needles in the same fashion as an air plane. Gradually piercing the skin, applying ink, then gradually lifting out of the skin in a smooth consistent motion. For a line to go in straight and have proper depth, it is imperative for the tattooist to have the experience and understanding on how deep the needles actually need to go in order to produce a permanent line. Not deep enough will create scratchy lines after healing, and going too deep will cause excessive bleeding, and unnecessary discomfort on the client's part (Hence the term 'it hurt like hell!', this pretty much tells me the person giving the tattoo was an amateur). The skin should be stretched and a thin layer of Vaseline placed on the area to hinder irritation which is common in receiving a professional tattoo. I say irritation, because a professional tattoo should not 'hurt', unless you are hung-over, tired, or have a really low pain tolerance level.
Once the outline is complete, the area is thoroughly cleaned with green soap and water. Next, the outline is thickened and shading added. Depending on the size of the art work, the artist will use combination of needles in a flat or round cluster (one's, three's, five's, seven's, or more). To make things simple, I will explain the use of a three needle combination. Please remember, that in making needles, there are several minute procedures and steps taken to correctly solder a combination to a needle bar. If it is not done right, uneven, shadowed lines, unwanted pain, and prolonged healing will most definitely occur (Once again, find an artist who knows exactly what they are doing, most scratchers do build their own needles, and you may find out the hard way if they have done the job properly).
Using a thicker, blacker ink, the artist will go over the outline with a tightly wrapped cluster of needles. This allows an even solid line to be applied over the entire tattoo. For shading, a round cluster of needles which are “fanned” out is used, giving the effects desired in the artwork. Not all tattooists work in the same manner or style, some use round clusters, flats, or magnums. It all boils down to personal preference, and who they apprenticed under.
After outline and shading is complete, and the tattoo once again cleaned, it is now ready for colour. Tubes and needles are constantly placed in the ultra sonic cleaner during the tattoo process to remove ink and foreign particles. When applying colour, the artist may use the “fanned” cluster of needles and operate the machine in a figure eight motion, over-lapping each previous line of colour to insure solid, even hues with no “holidays” (if needles are improperly soldered together, or barbed, what will occur is flesh being removed and chewed up). “Holidays” are uneven areas where colour has either lifted out during healing, or where the tattooist simply missed that particular section of skin.
The tattoo is now once again sprayed and cleaned and pressure is applied using a disposable towel to remove any spotting and plasma which has been excreted during the tattooing process. Under normal conditions, a new tattoo will have completely stopped spotting blood and plasma within a few minutes after completion. “Abnormal” conditions may be alcohol in the system, which thins blood and lowers pain tolerance levels, tattooing over scar tissue (which can be done, only very carefully), fatigue, not eating properly prior to getting tattooed, having a cold or the flu, being pregnant, or being high on prescription or illegal drugs(anyone who is sick, drunk, high, or pregnant should not be tattooed). If the tattoo is properly taken care of, it will be as vibrant in years to come as it was the day you got it.
At this point, the needles have been soldered to the needle bars and all the necessary steps have been taken for sterilization. The first step is to prepare the area of skin where the tattoo is going. The artist sprays the area with a mixture of water and antiseptic green soap, then removes hair using a disposable razor (hair clogs up tubes and hinders application of stencil and the actual tattoo).
Once all hair is removed, a light coat of speed stick is applied. The only purpose for the speed stick is to enable the stencil to stick to the skin. The stencil is usually onion skin paper with an outline made by a hectograph pencil, or hectograph carbon paper. This method produces a nice, clean, sharp image of the outline and is less prone to be accidentally wiped off like the charcoal stencils of days gone by.
Now that there is a temporary outline of the tattoo in place, it is time begin. Using a single needle, the artist will start at the bottom right hand side and work up (south paw artists would start at the bottom left hand side), so the stencil won't be lost when the artist cleans a permanent line. With single needle work, a thinner black ink than what is used with shading is used, because the thinner ink can be easily wiped away from the skin without smearing (as well, thinner ink is less prone to 'bleed' under the skin as compared to a thicker ink). The tattoo machine should be making a nice, clear, 'buzzing' sound and lines are placed smooth and evenly by landing the needles in the same fashion as an air plane. Gradually piercing the skin, applying ink, then gradually lifting out of the skin in a smooth consistent motion. For a line to go in straight and have proper depth, it is imperative for the tattooist to have the experience and understanding on how deep the needles actually need to go in order to produce a permanent line. Not deep enough will create scratchy lines after healing, and going too deep will cause excessive bleeding, and unnecessary discomfort on the client's part (Hence the term 'it hurt like hell!', this pretty much tells me the person giving the tattoo was an amateur). The skin should be stretched and a thin layer of Vaseline placed on the area to hinder irritation which is common in receiving a professional tattoo. I say irritation, because a professional tattoo should not 'hurt', unless you are hung-over, tired, or have a really low pain tolerance level.
Once the outline is complete, the area is thoroughly cleaned with green soap and water. Next, the outline is thickened and shading added. Depending on the size of the art work, the artist will use combination of needles in a flat or round cluster (one's, three's, five's, seven's, or more). To make things simple, I will explain the use of a three needle combination. Please remember, that in making needles, there are several minute procedures and steps taken to correctly solder a combination to a needle bar. If it is not done right, uneven, shadowed lines, unwanted pain, and prolonged healing will most definitely occur (Once again, find an artist who knows exactly what they are doing, most scratchers do build their own needles, and you may find out the hard way if they have done the job properly).
Using a thicker, blacker ink, the artist will go over the outline with a tightly wrapped cluster of needles. This allows an even solid line to be applied over the entire tattoo. For shading, a round cluster of needles which are “fanned” out is used, giving the effects desired in the artwork. Not all tattooists work in the same manner or style, some use round clusters, flats, or magnums. It all boils down to personal preference, and who they apprenticed under.
After outline and shading is complete, and the tattoo once again cleaned, it is now ready for colour. Tubes and needles are constantly placed in the ultra sonic cleaner during the tattoo process to remove ink and foreign particles. When applying colour, the artist may use the “fanned” cluster of needles and operate the machine in a figure eight motion, over-lapping each previous line of colour to insure solid, even hues with no “holidays” (if needles are improperly soldered together, or barbed, what will occur is flesh being removed and chewed up). “Holidays” are uneven areas where colour has either lifted out during healing, or where the tattooist simply missed that particular section of skin.
The tattoo is now once again sprayed and cleaned and pressure is applied using a disposable towel to remove any spotting and plasma which has been excreted during the tattooing process. Under normal conditions, a new tattoo will have completely stopped spotting blood and plasma within a few minutes after completion. “Abnormal” conditions may be alcohol in the system, which thins blood and lowers pain tolerance levels, tattooing over scar tissue (which can be done, only very carefully), fatigue, not eating properly prior to getting tattooed, having a cold or the flu, being pregnant, or being high on prescription or illegal drugs(anyone who is sick, drunk, high, or pregnant should not be tattooed). If the tattoo is properly taken care of, it will be as vibrant in years to come as it was the day you got it.
Tattooing equipment
To fully understand tattooing as an art, it is important for the tattooist to know how to put a tattoo machine together, and understand it’s components.
Even though much of this file may seem irrelevant to a client, the basic information provided will better equip one in choosing a competent tattooist. In my opinion, if an individual does not know the mechanics of their instruments, they are most definitely not prepared to be tattooing anybody (they wouldn't?t be touching my skin!).
For starters, I will give a brief explanation of the power box. It is equipped with a clip cord, foot pedal, and a voltage and amperage meter. The power box is what gives the tattoo machine its spark. It plugs in to an outlet or battery and supplies the tattoo machine with power via the clip cord. Current is then supplied from power box to machine by means of the foot operated pedal. Pressing down on the pedal allows current flow, releasing the pedal stops current flow. Power is regulated by a voltage dial located on the power box itself. This dial enables the tattooist to fine tune the tattoo machine by controlling how much voltage (electromotive force) is being supplied, hence slowing down or speeding up the machine. Smaller coiled machines would require more voltage than a larger coiled machine to operate at the same amperage. In layman’s terms, a machine with a six wrap coil is less powerful than a machine with a ten wrap coil. A tattooist’s speed and personal style will play an important role on adjustments and in choosing which machine he/she will want to employ for any given task (no two tattooists operate in exactly the same way, everyone is different).
The tattoo machine itself is composed of several parts, but to keep things simple, I won’t go into much detail with them. Basically what you have is a frame, coils, front and rear springs, capacitor, contact screw, binding post, rear post, rear ground post, tube, needle bar(and needles), hand grip, and elastic bands (which aid the needle bar from straying off it’s vertical course). When the tattoo machine is operating, needle bars and needles are moving at approximately two thousand times a minute.
Other vital tools of a professional studio should include an ultra sonic cleaner to clean needles and bars when changing pigments (this is not to be confused with a steam sterilizer as it does not kill bacteria), a good light source (white light is preferred to properly see the true hues of the pigments), running water, and all the basic elements of maintaining a sanitary environment.
Even though much of this file may seem irrelevant to a client, the basic information provided will better equip one in choosing a competent tattooist. In my opinion, if an individual does not know the mechanics of their instruments, they are most definitely not prepared to be tattooing anybody (they wouldn't?t be touching my skin!).
For starters, I will give a brief explanation of the power box. It is equipped with a clip cord, foot pedal, and a voltage and amperage meter. The power box is what gives the tattoo machine its spark. It plugs in to an outlet or battery and supplies the tattoo machine with power via the clip cord. Current is then supplied from power box to machine by means of the foot operated pedal. Pressing down on the pedal allows current flow, releasing the pedal stops current flow. Power is regulated by a voltage dial located on the power box itself. This dial enables the tattooist to fine tune the tattoo machine by controlling how much voltage (electromotive force) is being supplied, hence slowing down or speeding up the machine. Smaller coiled machines would require more voltage than a larger coiled machine to operate at the same amperage. In layman’s terms, a machine with a six wrap coil is less powerful than a machine with a ten wrap coil. A tattooist’s speed and personal style will play an important role on adjustments and in choosing which machine he/she will want to employ for any given task (no two tattooists operate in exactly the same way, everyone is different).
The tattoo machine itself is composed of several parts, but to keep things simple, I won’t go into much detail with them. Basically what you have is a frame, coils, front and rear springs, capacitor, contact screw, binding post, rear post, rear ground post, tube, needle bar(and needles), hand grip, and elastic bands (which aid the needle bar from straying off it’s vertical course). When the tattoo machine is operating, needle bars and needles are moving at approximately two thousand times a minute.
Other vital tools of a professional studio should include an ultra sonic cleaner to clean needles and bars when changing pigments (this is not to be confused with a steam sterilizer as it does not kill bacteria), a good light source (white light is preferred to properly see the true hues of the pigments), running water, and all the basic elements of maintaining a sanitary environment.
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